They weren't, and I smoked my clutch packs & burnt up the internals. My problem was not accounting for the extra fluid draining out during that time, and thinking that the standard 5qts were enough. I did wrestle w/ myself for a while about whether I could do it correctly.Īs it turned out, I did a great job (although a little slow, but my Voy isn't my DD). For me, although I had done a few filter changes on THM350s & 400s way back when, I had never removed a VB before. Good stuff (although it looks like he's gone up on his prices a little since I bought mine.)Īs for installing.only you know what your capabilities are. That one's the 'deluxe' version, as it has the vette servo along with the ATSG service manual. That is, indeed, the kit we all talk about and have installed ourselves. Since you'll be in there, may as well put in a new separator plate and replace any plastic accumulators (the VB should have a new fwd accumulator piston already in, if you do the reman option)
#94 4l60e shift kit silverado full#
If the TCC / 1870 issue was your only one, I'd go this route, having done it myself (including the full rebuild after, but that was my fault, due to fluid starvation) In the event it doesn't fix, or dies from another issue, then you spend the price for the full rebuild, which you were prepared to do anyway. Only issue is that you've got 215K on the trans, so that is a risk (that something else breaks). I'd actually rate about 80% probability of a good outcome. Either way solves your issue.Įasier to spend a couple hundred if you know the alternative is 10x that amount, and has a better than 50/50 chance of fixing the problem (permanently). If you go for the second option, make sure you get one with the TCC fix already done (a lot of them put in the Sonnax fix, which is an overbored / sleeved /oversized valve. Since you know she's a keeper, put the transgo kit in, or replace the VB outright. I would really like some input on which option I should take. I have a different vehicle to drive so it's not like I'm without wheels.
I'm going to keep this truck for a long time so I'm thinking of just parking it and saving up for that, but part of me wants to try to fix the old transmission first.
Having a new remanufactured stock replacement transmission installed would run me about $2500 I'm guessing. Then, I've thrown away $500 just to need a whole new transmission anyway. And, of course, no guarantees this fixes the problem. So we're $500 into the original 213K+ mile 4L60E with questionable maintenance history. Thing is, I don't have a garage or lift, so I probably can't do it myself, and I assume it's gonna run me about 2 hours of labor at a shop, which is like another $250. Now, it seems that most likely I just need to change the valve body, which would run me about $180, then with new fluid and filter and stuff maybe $250: This would explain why DTC 1870 is often accompanied by a complaint of a hard 1-2 upshift." A little research online turned up this: "If at some point the transmission begins to slip, P1870 sets and line pressure is elevated in an attempt to stop any further slippage and prevent further damage. Well by the time I got there I was going the 1-2 shift went from a little annoying to REALLY hard, and the service engine soon light came on. I was stuck in traffic and noticed that the 1-2 shift was a little hard. Been joyfully driving this thing for a whole two days (about 400 miles) before the 4L60E betrayed me. Not sure how much I've posted about my $600 Suburban, but the short version is it took a lot of parts, time, money, and stuff to get it back on the road.
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